Friday 28 August 2015

Face saving (I)

Understanding your skin

The skin is the largest and heaviest organ in the human anatomy. It acts as a first line of defence to our internal tissues against the onslaught of external harmful elements such as pathogens, ultra-violet rays and hazardous substances. It also fulfills functions like maintaining and regulating body temperature, to prevent dehydration.


The skin is composed of two main layers: the outer epidermis which acts as the protective barrier. Langerhans' cells lining up here belong to the body's immune system that can detect foreign invasion and activate the white blood cells to launch an attack.


In so doing, it has to replace the top layer every 28 days or more. This process involves moving up new cells known as keratinocytes from the bottom layer of the epidermis. Most cells are dead when brought up to the surface because they do not receive oxygen and nutrients anymore. Keratin produced and oil from the sebaceous glands help to keep the skin moist and waterproof, vital in keeping away bad bacteria from thriving on the surface. In the event this barrier is being stripped off (eg frequent use of hard soap), the skin loses moisture at a rapid rate, leading to the production of more sebum (oil) to "compensate," as well as more bacteria to feed on the dead skin cells and sebum. As a result, skin becomes more sensitive, dry, oily, dull and potentially broken out - all pointing towards signs of malnourished skin. Prolonged loss of nutrients hastens the process of aging.

How skin works?

Cell division can be accelerated if there is a cut or injury. Usually blood clot is formed and when combined with other fibres becomes a scab. Overgrowth of tissue is possible after the recovery. Severely damaged skin may heal by forming scar tissue which may be discolored and de-pigmented. This control mechanism can also fail and moves at an abnormally high rate, giving rise to tumors as in skin cancer.

Also here you can find melanoctyes that give the skin its distinctive color. The chemical substance, melanin produced is the same amongst light and dark skinned people. Only difference is that light skinned people need sun exposure for melanin to be manifested.

The dermis layer is responsible for providing support and food material (eg. oxygen, nutrients) to the epidermis through the blood vessels running its course. In addition, it contains the sebaceous glands, sweat glands, hair follicles and sense receptors.

This layer is held together by a fibrous mesh of collagen and elastin.

Collagen is actually a group of proteins found naturally in the body, mostly in our connective or “fibrous” tissues. In fact, it is the most abundant protein we have, accounting for about 30% of the protein content of the human body. Built thick and interwoven, it keeps the skin strong and stretchable without tearing. 

Elastin is also a protein found in connective tissues with the actual property of being elastic. Being thin, they behave like rubber, allowing the skin to snap back and return to its original form.

Teenagers with much collagen and elastin under the skin have tight, smooth and unwrinkled skin.

Below the dermis lies a layer of fat that helps insulate the body from heat and cold, provides protective padding and serves as an energy storage area. The fat is contained in living cells, called fat cells, held together by fibrous tissue. This layer varies in thickness, from a fraction of an inch on the eyelids to several inches on the abdomen and buttocks in some people.


















With aging, the skin undergoes changes, both intrinsic and extrinsic. The intrinsic changes are inevitable, reducing the structural integrity of the skin. Visible signs are a loss of firmness and smoothness, emergence of dark spots and discolorations, and the formation of lines and wrinkles.

The deterioration can be explained further:

-   Collagen production naturally declines with age - lowering metabolism which causes cells to produce less of the essential proteins, and thus slow production of new skin cells, allowing the older ones to be around longer which contributes to the dull complexion. The melanocytes cells decrease in number but increase in size which gives a pale look on the skin.

-  Collagen becomes more cross-linked and rigid, like a brick wall that is gradually marked and broken. This results in a weaker framework for skin, so it caves and bends, forming wrinkles. Wounds heal more slowly and the skin thins, becoming even more vulnerable to environmental stressors.

-  The blood vessels in the dermis begin to lose strength and skin becomes vulnerable to injury, leading to bruising and bleeding beneath.

-  Elastin fibers lose their resilience, and the skin does not snap back as well, resulting in the sagging around the eyes, jaw line and neck.

-  The underlying fat in the subcutaneous layer is lost, hollowness appears on the cheek and eye sockets.

-  Both sweat glands and sebaceous glands become less active resulting in dry skin and less heat sensitive.

-  Skin dehydration with lesser water intake. As water makes up 70% of the composition, drinking adequately is crucial for healthy, youth-looking skin.

Extrinsic changes are those that occur due to environmental causes. Free radicals from external sources disturb the body processes, causing premature cell death or alterations in the ability of cells to produce needed components for healthy looking skin. Natural process is not controllable whilst environmental factors including sun exposure, pollution, stress, smoke and oxygen can be minimised by taking necessary precaution.

Free radicals triggered by environmental agents are highly reactive molecules that attack cells and damage collagen and elastin, the vital components in the dermis layer. The oxidation process involves attacking another molecule and stealing an electron from it, setting off a chain reaction of cellular damage. On the contrary, an antioxidant is a molecule that helps neutralise free radicals by donating its electron, thus protecting the skin by helping to block damaging reactions.

The skin's natural defenses against these free radicals are ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) and alpha-tocopherol (Vitamin E). They are potent antioxidants that intercept the free radicals before damage sets in. However, during time of severe distress, the body does not consider preventing wrinkles a primary concern. Hence, these essential vitamins should be incorporated into your daily care regimen or oral use in combination with your sunscreens.

Sunlight damage


Acceptable levels of sun exposure induces Vitamin D production in the skin which can help to reduce cholesterol.

However, nothing ages the skin faster than over-exposure to damaging sunlight. The effects of ultraviolet radiation on skin cells can be as little as a slight glow or redness on the skin, to extreme sunburn with pain, blistering and peeling on the surface of the skin. Younger complexions may appear to heal from this without apparent residual effects. However, the more severe, deeper damage may not become noticeable until years later, when skin begins to appear leathery dry, wrinkled and pigmented.

There are two types of skin damaging UV rays: UVA and UVB.

+ UVB radiation is the stronger of the two and is the culprit responsible for the typical sunburn as it stimulates the synthesis of melatonin that turns your skin dark usually after 4-8 hours of exposure. Over-stimulation can cause a significant pigmentation of the skin. Vitamin E proves to be better at boosting UVB protection. On the other hand, people with naturally dark skin tone have more melanin that serves as natural sun protection being able to absorb UV-B radiation from the sun. However, a big disadvantage is this process reduces the skin's capacity to produce vitamin D3 by 95%-99% and may require at least three to five times longer exposures to make the same amount of vitamin D as a person with a white skin tone.



Sunscreen containing chemicals such as avobenzone and oxymethylcinnemate are commonly used for the purpose of absorbing UV radiation and thus reduces the amount that reaches the skin. Look out for SPF (sun protection factor) as a measure of protection. One with minimum SPF-30 should be able to block 97% of the sun's rays. People with fairer skin can opt for a higher SPF. Note that for any sunscreen products beyond SPF-30, the incremental benefit tapers off exponentially and there may be potential downsides using such high SPF products. Again Vitamin D can be lacking and needs to be supplemented.


+ UVA rays are not strong and do not cause sunburn or skin reddening. In fact, up to 95% of the sun's radiation that reaches the skin is UVA.  The deep penetration into the dermis layer damages the connective tissue giving rise to thickened skin and wrinkles over a period of time. This happens because it induces the formation of free radicals that in turn, attack the lipids in the skin. In the worst case, skin cancer develops.

Vitamin C demonstrates stronger protective effects against UVA radiation. Having said that, it is not commonly found in cosmetic products due to poor stability and fast decomposition.

A sunblock often comes with much thicker formulation than sunscreen and usually contains inorganic ingredients such as zinc oxide and titanium dioxide which can effectively block the sun's rays from deep skin penetration.  Be aware that even by staying indoor or on a cloudy day, up to 80% of the sun's harmful UV rays can still reach the skin. Window glass blocks UVB rays but not UVA rays.

VIVA corner

(1) RENEW - Protectant and Moisturiser

It is more than just a sunscreen! 

Renew, belongs to the range of Toujour La Vie line of fabulous skincare products designed for the face and neck. This luxurious lotion has a high Skin Protection Factor (SPF) to reduce exposure to UVA and UVB wavelengths of ultraviolet light which can cause pigmentation and age spots.

It has 4 functions in one formula, providing complete daytime protection against UV lights.

1.  Prevents sunburn, pigmentation and aged spots:

- SPF extends the duration of protection against sunburn, effective for UVB after 20 mins of exposure. Renew has SPF28, meaning it can extend the duration by 28 times or about 560 mins before sunburn occurs.

- PA (Protection UVA) - PA+++ is designed for normal skin that expose to very strong UV radiation (eg over-tanning) over extended period. It provides good UVA protection with a factor of PPD of more than 8 which is the highest grade of UVA protection currently available.

2. Maintain moisture and soothe the skin. The addition of kelp, squalene and wheat germ helps maintain your skin's moisture and luster. Together with ivy, chamomile, cucumber and other botanical extracts, they work to calm and soothe your skin, while providing comprehensive daytime protection.

3.  Prevent premature aging. Vitamin C, Vitamin E, COQ10 and gingko extract are antioxidants that protect skin from free radical damage.

4. Balance skin color to provide natural shine and luster. Light, clean and non-oily, it is easily applied to give you natural and healthy looking skin.

Direction: In the morning, after cleansing with Restore (betapure bar/liquid), toning with Refresh (detoxifying toner) and applying protein serum, pat and spread sufficient amount on the face and neck. Let the light, silky lotion glides on and gradually sinks into the surface layer to form a protective base under makeup or alone. The mild, clean fragrance makes it appealing to both sexes.
Benefits: Keep skin moist, prevent premature aging/pigmentation/aged spots/sunburn and protect against free radical damage.
Result: Constant use keeps the skin looking young. Given its non-greasy and water resistant base, going into the water can provide 40 minutes of protection.

(2) REJUVENATE - The Face-lifter

Rejuvenate is another fabulous TLV skincare product to work on the face and neck. This hydrating fibre mask assists in bringing to a new level of hydration and resilence to your skin in the shortest possible time.

It is drenched in a special combination of nutrients and moisturizers that are quickly absorbed into the uppermost layers of the skin. As our skin contains essential nutrients such as water, collagen, hyaluronic acid and natural moisturizing factors, their gradual loss is a sign of aging. Hence, this mask is designed to replenish the deficiency with its deep moisture protection, skin softening and brightening properties to restore your skin's balance with minimum effort and convenience.


Benefits:
-  Replenishes the skin's lost nutrients
-  Natural extract with long-lasting nourishment
-  Highly penetrating and rapid absorption
-  Increases elasticity and prevents aging of the skin
-  Improves skin balance and diminishes pores

Ingredients:

Micro-collagen - to trap more natural nutrients to compensate for lost ones;
Super moisturizing nutrient - polyglutamic acid, natural moisturizing factors;
Comfort skin - Aloe, shiao, witch hazel, Dipotassium Glycyrrihizinate;
Anti-aging - Micro-Collagen, Hyaluronic Acid;
Antioxidant and Enhance skin brightening - L-Ascorbic Acid (vitamin C is required to make the most abundant protein, collagen), Coenzyme10.

Direction: Place mask produced according to a perfect 12 cut method gently on the face and relax for 15-20 mins. Upon application, notice the warmth of your skin helps to release the nutrients from the mask, allowing for rapid penetration deep into the skin. The amount of collagen being dissimilated and fast absorption may cause a slight prickly feeling for those with dry and dehydrated skin. With much richness of nutrients built-in, the remnants after the facial application can be used on the neck and other parts of the body. No rinsing, no mess, no wastage.

Result: A 15 min job once or twice weekly is adequate to allow deep layer absorption of Rejuvenate which elevates skin moisture and gives your skin a complete course of nourishment and care. This is made possible with the flabby basal cells on the epidermis turning robust and at the dermis layer - the shrunken collagen strengthened and elastin increased in elasticity. You will be amazed you skin glow almost instantly!

(3) REVEAL - the Brightener

Reveal - Enhanced Brightening Serum contains potent natural ingredients that promote an even skin tone and a flawless complexion by diminishing the appearance of dark spots and discoloration on your face. Enhanced with chirally correct activators, this product is an effective formulation that can deliver desired results with natural gentleness, leaving your complexion brighter each day. Thus, regular use can improve the luminosity, texture and clarity of the skin.

Beauty benefits:

+ Minimise further melanin production, the cause of discoloration

+ Reduces the appearance of dark spots and discoloration

+ Minimise imperfections caused by the sun and aging process

+ Improves texture and clarity of the skin

+ Promotes an even, translucent skin tone

Ingredients: It contains 3 potent chirally correct ingredients, namely:
*  L-Arbutin - blocks the enzymes that produce melanin
*  L-Ascorbic acid - to clear free radicals
*  L-Lactic acid - to adjust acidity

Direction: In the evening, apply a small amount of Reveal onto affected areas after cleansing and toning. This can be followed 3 minutes later with Rebuild Serum protein or Refine Evening moisturizer for better absorption. For the 1-2 weeks apply some amount on the hyper-pigmented dark spots, discoloration and areas of uneven skin tone only. Once this is rectified, the entire face can apply for an overall brightening effect.

Result: The golden sleeping hours of between 10pm-2am is the best time for the skin to rejuvenate. Hence, apply Reveal during this timing helps to suppress melanin production to achieve better brightening effect.


(4)  REGENERATE - the deep cleanser
Regenerate clarifying mask is a deep cleansing mask that penetrate into pores, absorbs excess grease and impurities to give a radiant and luminous look.


Beauty benefits: An ideal way to shrink pores, blot out shininess and clear away troublesome blemishes.


Ingredients:
*  Anthemis nobilis flower extract - contains anti-bacterial and antiseptic compounds, beneficial for hair and sensitive skin;
*  Protulacea oleracea extract - contains a natural source of antioxidants, strong anti-irritant properties that soothe sensitive and itchy skin;
*  Tea tree oil - reduces redness and inflammation, powerful anti-bacterial, anti-fungal and anti-viral properties;
*  Willow bark extract - contains a natural exfoliant, soothing and conditioning properties.


Direction/result:  After cleansing and toning, apply a generous amount onto the face and neck. Leave it for 15-30 minutes before rinsing off thoroughly with water. You may want to massage with gentle simple circular strokes for 3 minutes to loosen dead surface skin cells and encourages a brighter complexion. After patting dry, apply moisturizer.


More comments


Collagen synthesis begins to decline around the age of 40, with a dramatic reduction in synthesis in women after menopause. By the age of 60 there is typically a considerable decline in collagen production.


Do not stop at our face. Our neck has fewer sebaceous glands and thus makes lesser natural oil. Coupled with thin skin layer, it becomes rough with the aging process and may develop wrinkles or visible spots. Act on nourishing and moisturizing our neck today!


Conclusion
The loss of nutrients in the skin is an early sign of aging. Viva Life Science has 3 excellent products that work very well for those who treasure their skin:

Renew is an effective shield against damaging sun exposure. Constant use can reduce the risks of skin aging, skin cancer and other harmful effects of the sun.

Rejuvenate provides moisturizing, antioxidant, softening, brightening and calming effects with its rich nourishing ingredients for effective regeneration of cells.

Reveal can reduce blemishes on your face for a brighter and clearer complexion.

With the addition of these great products for anti-aging skincare, your TLV routine is made more complete with a whole new dimension of effectiveness. Appropriate and consistent use should see improvement in your skin skin deep!

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